|
|
|
How
to clean an electric stock motor
Cleaning your electric motor
is important to give maximum performance as it keeps everything working
smoothly, and will help prevent overheating. The basic things you will
need are:
- Can of good quality motor
cleaner
- Cotton buds
- Bushing/bearing oil
- An old rag or cloth
- Hardware to take apart motor
1. Take off the pinion, and remove
the brush springs. Slide out the old brushes and they can be left dangling
from the endbell (unless you are replacing them, when you should remove
them completely).
2. Unscrew the endbell (there should be two screws with
washers) and carefully remove from the can. Then you can take the washer
off the top of the armature, which can be cleaned later.
3. Pull out the armature, but make sure you don't lose the small washer/s from the bottom.
TIP: Work on a light coloured surface so that all motor parts can be easily
found. Otherwise, work on a white (old) towel for the same reason. Also,
as you take the motor apart, place the washers in the order that they were
placed on the armature. This way you don't have to remember which washer
goes where.
4. Now the lock ring can be removed. This is the metal ring
that sits at the top of the inside of the can. Just turn the ring until
the small notches are inline, and then remove it from the can.
5. Now thoroughly
clean the can by removing all fluff and dirt using the brush. Make sure
you get all dirt of the bushing at the bottom of the can.
6. Follow step
5 but with the endbell, making sure there is no dirt on the bushing.
7.
Spray a small amount of motor cleaner onto a cotton bud and clean the bushing
until it becomes clean and shiny. Make sure you also clean the other side
on the outside of the can. If there id too much motor cleaner around the
bottom of the can, wipe it dry with a dry cotton bud. DO NOT spray motor
cleaner directly into the can/enbell as this can attract fluff and make
the motor perform worse than before. Keeping the bushings clean will increase
the performance and help the motor to run smoothly.
8. Ever wondered why your car suddenly stops while racing, and nothing seems
loose or unconnected? Well it's a possibility that one of the brushes has
become stuck in the brush hood (where the brushes sit). To prevent this
just spray some motor cleaner onto another cotton bud, and wipe it around
the inside of the brush hoods. Make sure you wipe all the corners and sides
with the cotton bud so that there is no dirt or fluff inside them at all.
This will help the brushes to move inside the brush hoods smoothly. Use
this process on both the positive and negative brush hoods.
9. Use a fresh, sprayed cotton bud
to wipe all the sides of the actual brushes as well. Then, use it to wipe
the face of the brush to make it as clean as possible. You will never get
all the copper off the face of the brush, but you will be able to make it
cleaner resulting in longer lasting brushes and a cooler run of your motor.
Do this on both brushes, or just replace them with new ones if your armature
is getting skimmed. Always replace the brushes with new ones if you are
having your armature skimmed If you use old ones with a freshly skimmed
armature, the brushes will not last as long and the motor may overheat.
10. Skip this step if armature has been skimmed. Spray some motor cleaner
onto an old rag or cloth, and wipe it around the copper part of the armature.
This is the part where the brushes make contact, and there should be small
grooves indicating that the armature has not been skimmed. You can remove
any fluff from the armature by using a brush.
11. Now you can start to put
the motor back together again. Start by putting the lock ring back into
the top of the motor. Make sure the cutouts are lined up and turn clockwise
as far as it will go. At this point you can check that you have put the
lock ring in the right way around by just holding the endbell above the
can in the correct place, and checking that the holes in the lock ring and
endbell line up. If they are completely different, remove the lock ring,
turn it over and follow the beginning of step 11 again.
12. Now you can
hold the small washers that are from the bottom of the armature in your
fingers, and give them a quick blast of motor cleaner. This should clean
up any dirt or grit from them.
13. Do the same for the fibre washer that
belongs at the top of the armature.
14. Now you can slide all the washers
onto the armature (top and bottom), making sure you have put the right ones
in the right places.
15. Now carefully slide the armature into the can,
making sure the washers at the bottom do not slide off. Then the endbell
can be placed onto the top of the can. Make sure that the endbell is correctly
lined up with the can, and you can start to replace the endbell screws that
hold the motor together. Give the bottom of the armature a quick spin with
your fingers, making sure that there is nothing stopping the armature from
spinning. There should be some friction from the magnets inside the can.
16. Now you can add some bushing oil to the two bushings from the outside
of the motor. Make sure that you only put a very tiny amount on both bushings,
as too much can attract fluff. Now give the armature another spin with your
fingers.
17. Now the brushes can be re-inserted into the brush hoods. If
you are using new brushes, they can be soldered or screwed in at this stage.
The springs are sometimes colour coded, so if they are make sure you attach
them onto the correct side of the endbell.
18. Now the motor has been finished,
just attach to pinion gear and you are ready to use it.!
Written by Matt Pocknell, 2004 |
|

AS9060 Team Associated RC10B44 Factory Team Kit 4WD*Special Price*
Price: £249.99
Special Offer: £214.97
**Special Price**
The Factory Team B44 project came to life in 2003 as a cooperative effort between Team Associated and J Concepts’ Jason Ruona and Brad Reelfs. After Team Associated’s Ryan Cavalieri won the 2005 IFMAR World Championships in Collegno, Italy with the BJ4 Worlds Edition, Area 51 shifted into overdrive to produce a true 'Associated' inspired 4WD buggy that would continue to dominate the 4WD off road racing class. The B44 is the result of this two-year development effort.
During the design and development stages Associated used their extensive and well-proven skills to make a 4WD competition buggy that is better suited to production. The results of this optimization are realized by you, the customer, in a more cost-effective vehicle with more readily available spare parts.
The B44 is built on a 2.5mm woven carbon fiber main chassis and top plate. What’s new is the composite front bulkhead and rear chassis plate. These new features greatly improve overall durability and increase the ground clearance, further enhancing the B44's performance.
Area 51 designers also improved the BJ4’s slipper clutch. The result is the B44’s new externally adjustable, dual pad slipper clutch, which transfers power to the ground more efficiently and effectively.
The B44 employs a hardened steel CVA drivetrain with lightened ball differentials for unparalleled acceleration. The B44 soaks up the bumps using Factory Team hard anodized aluminum threaded shocks with gold shock shafts. The shocks mount to durable 3mm woven carbon fiber shock towers, making the B44 more responsive and giving quicker handling.
The B44 gets the full Factory Team treatment with blue titanium turnbuckles, blue aluminum shock bushings and blue aluminum servo mounts for a car that looks as good as it is fast!
Many Team Associated fans from all over the world have asked us when we are going to build a 4WD buggy. Team Associated is proud to say that day has come with the B44, the only 4WD electric race buggy that comes from a racing heritage with 20 IFMAR World Championships behind it.
Factory Team B44 Features of the Factory Team B44
Composite front bulkhead and rear chassis plate for improved durability and more ground clearance
Externally adjustable, dual pad slipper clutch
3mm woven carbon fiber shock towers
2.5mm woven carbon fiber main chassis and top plate
Rear hubs use large .187 x .500 bearing for more durability
Lightened ball differentials front and rear
Shaft drive for unparalleled acceleration
Slotted motor mount for quick and easy installation
Blue aluminum center bulkhead cap with molded bearing inserts
Ball bearing steering with adjustable servo save
Hardened steel CVAs with cross pin retaining clips for ultimate reliability
Front wheels and hexes are optimized to prevent hex stripping
Hard anodized aluminum threaded shock bodies with Factory Team gold shock shafts
Blue Factory Team titanium turnbuckles
Blue Factory Team aluminum shock bushings
Blue Factory Team aluminum servo mounts
Blue Factory Team thumb screws and molded battery straps
| |